Provence, a region in southern France, has long been a haven for artists, and it's easy to see why. From the vibrant city of Marseille to the picturesque town of Arles, the area offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and a cost of living that is hard to beat. In this article, I'll take you on a journey through Provence's art scene, sharing my personal experiences and insights along the way.
Marseille: A City of Art and Affordability
Marseille, with its stunning Mediterranean coastline, is a place that has captured the hearts of many. My wife and I made the move from London to Marseille over five years ago, and it was love at first sight. The city's energy, combined with its affordability, made it an ideal base for us. As I discussed with the painter Fanny Nushka and her sailor husband, Benoît Bouchet, Marseille's allure for artists is undeniable. Fanny shared that the city's blue skies and limestone coves are challenging to paint, but the cost of living allows her to focus on her art full-time. Benoît, meanwhile, can sail without being away from his family for extended periods, thanks to the city's reasonable prices.
Marseille's art scene has been on the rise since it was named European Capital of Culture in 2013. Institutions like Frac Sud, Mac, and the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations (Mucem) have brought larger exhibitions and more widely recognized artists to the city. This summer, the Mucem showcases 'Bonnes Mères,' a collection of contemporary and historical works on motherhood, and 'Ferdinandea, l’île éphémère,' a fascinating body of work by Clément Cogitore centered on a brief volcanic Mediterranean island. The art fair Art-O-Rama, hosted at La Friche La Belle de Mai, is another highlight, bringing a buzz of activity to the city's multidisciplinary arts center.
Aix-en-Provence: A Conservative Town with a Contemporary Twist
Just a short 40-minute drive from Marseille, Aix-en-Provence is a charming, quiet town with an abundance of museums. However, it's the Gallifet art center that stands out. Located in an 18th-century townhouse, Gallifet is a refreshing change from the traditional art institutions in Aix. The owners, Nicolas Mazet and Kate Davis, have a mission to bring contemporary art to the conservative town. This summer, the center features a retrospective of the photographer François Halard, with over 100 works spanning more than three decades. Gallifet also hosts a seasonal restaurant and chef's residency, with Paris-based chefs Lisa Desforges and Bruno Hammerle creating menus using Provence's abundant and delicious ingredients.
Avignon: A Medieval Town with a Contemporary Twist
Further up the Rhône, Avignon is a medieval town nestled against the river. The Palais des Papes overlooks the renowned vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and lavender fields. The town is taken over each July by the Avignon festival, one of the oldest performance arts festivals. The most notable address for contemporary art in Avignon is the Lambert Collection, housed in two stunning 18th-century townhouses. The collection is the legacy of Yvon Lambert, a celebrated gallerist and collector who championed American artists in the latter half of the 20th century. This year's exhibition features Melika Sadeghzadeh, an Iranian artist living and working in Montpellier.
Arles: A Roman Amphitheater and a Contemporary Photography Hub
Just south of Avignon, Arles is home to a nearly 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater, which hosts plays and concerts. The Vincent van Gogh Foundation and Luma host several exhibitions throughout the year, but the real treat comes in July during the Rencontres d’Arles. For 50 years, venues across town have showcased a wide range of contemporary and historical photography. We recently visited Arles for its Festival of Drawing, wandering through the picturesque medieval streets and discovering the tiny restaurant Páou in the quaint Place Paul Doumer. The menu promised sharing plates starring local produce and wines, and we sat down for another meal under the clear blue sky.
A Region of Endless Possibilities
Provence is a region of endless possibilities, where artists find inspiration in the natural beauty, cultural richness, and affordable cost of living. From the vibrant city of Marseille to the picturesque town of Arles, each destination offers a unique experience. Whether you're exploring the charming streets of Aix-en-Provence, immersing yourself in the medieval town of Avignon, or wandering through the picturesque medieval streets of Arles, Provence has something for everyone. So, pack your bags, grab your camera, and embark on your own artistic journey through this captivating region.
