Here's the inside scoop from the UWS: Simply Noodles’ Scallion Oil & Mushroom Noodles
By Abigael T. Sidi
This week keeps things clean and simple, as I’m easing into a light, almost-diet phase before the next round of holiday feasts. Clean eating doesn’t have to mean bland or boring, though. In fact, it can be incredibly flavorful and addictive, and Simply Noodles’ scallion-oil-and-mushroom noodles (cōng yóu bàn miàn) prove it.
Simply Noodles is a tiny noodle shop tucked opposite the 72nd Street 1-2-3 subway stop. From the outside it looks like any other casual spot, yet the word-of-mouth buzz has grown steadily in recent months. The venue even pops up in Dish’s comments, with diners praising both the dish’s simplicity and its high quality.
Most reviews—and the restaurant itself (https://www.simplynoodlesnyc.com/)—spotlight the star attraction: the “Crossing-Bridge-Rice-Noodles” (CBRN), a gluten-free alternative to the more common wheat noodles found in many Chinese eateries. Yet repeatedly I found myself drawn to Simply Noodles’ scallion-oil-and-mushroom noodles, made with classic wheat dan dan noodles. I’d previously sampled a variation at Nai Brother Sauerkraut Fish, a dish I featured in a prior discovery piece for its potential yet lacking fragrance and depth. Locals led me to believe the real version lives further south, at Simply Noodles.
Scallion oil is a foundational element in Jiangnan cuisine (the region around greater Shanghai and eastern China). Unlike Sichuan’s chili oils or Hunan’s fermented peppers, Jiangnan emphasizes fragrant oils as seasoning. These oils can be infused with shallots, ginger, or dried shrimp and likely trace back to the Song Dynasty (10th–13th centuries). They’re commonly blended with soy sauce and sugar to form the aromatic backbone of many regional dishes and condiments.
In Simply Noodles’ scallion-oil-and-mushroom preparation, aroma and balance take center stage. The dish presents with a refined, almost Japanese-inspired visual polish: slim noodles arranged neatly on a pristine plate, crowned with whole brown beech mushrooms in contrast to Nai Brother’s use of dehydrated mushroom strips.
At first bite, the flavors may seem restrained, almost understated. Yet the noodles themselves signal seriousness: thin, springy, and with a satisfying chew that rivals the city’s best, including Jin Ramen. As you continue to slurp, the sauce-to-noodle ratio shifts, heightening the earthy notes and the sweet-salty kiss of scallion oil, soy, and sugar. The flavor evolves as you eat, becoming punchier and more pungent, so the final mouthfuls feel almost like two meals in one.
The mushrooms contribute a welcomed textural contrast to a dish that grows more umami-rich with each bite. Fried garlic adds depth that harmonizes with both the sauce and the mushrooms.
Besides this version, Simply Noodles also offers CBRN noodles in several preparations, including soups, with the option to enjoy them with scallion oil, so gluten-free diners won’t miss out. The scallion pancakes are a crowd favorite, though I’ve yet to try them. The restaurant itself is intimate, seating six or seven tables, with a single warm lighting scheme and a cherry blossom mural that enhances the cozy atmosphere.
You can find Simply Noodles at 267 Amsterdam Avenue, across from Verdi Square, open daily from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Takeout and delivery are available during those hours. Vegetarian and vegan options are plentiful.
For many, there are certain dishes that click instantly. Nai Brother’s naige sauerkraut fish did it for me once, and Simply Noodles’ cōng yóu bàn miàn did it again. A loyal new customer has been earned.
The Dish: Scallion oil & mushroom noodles — $15.00
The Restaurant: Simply Noodles, 267 Amsterdam Avenue (between W. 72nd and 73rd Streets)
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